All About Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2013 // 深入解析Paul Smith 2013春夏新品系列

Beware: this is an extensive post about Paul Smith‘s SS2013 Men’s & Women’s Collections, including eye-popping images from the runway and editorial lookbooks, my exclusive ‘top picks’ and the Hong Kong preview exhibition itself!

Therefore, I’d advise you to sit back and allow yourselves plenty of time to read this post – maybe with a cup of tea in one hand and some yummy snacks in the other!

So get ready for your winter to be spiced up and get set for some great expectations from the upcoming Spring & Summer fashion collections.

Click here to view all official high quality images of the Paul Smith SS2013 collection on my official Facebook Page album.

About Paul Smith:

Paul Smith is one of Britain’s leading fashion designers and renowned for his idiosyncratic take on traditional British styling – ‘classic with a twist’. He has the ability to anticipate and spark trends, not only in fashion but often in the wider context of popular culture. In recognition of his dedication to British fashion, he was knighted in the 2001 Queen’s Birthday Honours list for services to the fashion industry and remains fully involved in his business. There are now over 150 Paul Smith shops around the world; this year, in addition to Mainland China, Paul Smith is opening new shops in Amsterdam, Melbourne, Moscow, Mumbai and Singapore.

注意：這是一篇關於Paul Smith 2013男女春夏新品系列的詳細博文介紹。在這篇博文里你會看到很多奪人眼球的精美相片，從秀場、特輯；到我為大家特別挑選的新季單品，和香港預覽會內的所見所聞等等應有盡有。

所以，我建議大家找個舒適的位置，以讓自己最享受的姿勢來慢慢閱讀這篇博文。當然，你也可以泡杯紅茶，準備些茶點。以最英國的方式來深入瞭解這個來自英國的品牌在新的一季會帶給我們何種靈感和設計理念。

如果你想閱覽Paul Smith 2013男女春夏系列所有的高清相片，可以點這裡造訪我的Facebook專業相冊查看。

關於Paul Smith：

英國頂尖的時裝設計師Paul Smith，以其對英倫風格的獨特詮釋而聞名於世， 打造「新意經典」 (classic with a twist) 。設計師高瞻遠矚，擁有極敏銳的時尚觸覺，不僅在時裝方面，他對於整個流行文化都具有獨到的見解及影響力。

Paul Smith於2001年名列英女皇壽辰授勳名單 (Queen’s Birthday Honours) 並獲授勳為騎士榮譽，以表揚其對英國時裝的熱誠及對業界的貢獻。時至今日，Paul Smith擁有超過150間專門店遍佈全球。今年品牌更將於中國、阿姆斯特丹、墨爾本、莫斯科、孟買和新加坡開設全新專門店。

The above images are shot by Paul Smith himself in a studio in London. Instead of continuing to use the minimalist black background  seen in previous seasons’ lookbooks, the designer opted for a light turquoise coloured backdrop for this collection.

Paul Smith 2013年春夏系列廣告企劃由Paul Smith本人親自在英國倫敦拍攝。是次企劃的畫面突破多季以來沿用的簡約黑色背景，而是延用了本年初於巴黎男裝時裝展的設計，以淺藍綠色牆壁和地毯作為模特兒的背景。

From Paul Smith SS2013 Black Label

From Paul Smith SS2013 Jeans Collection

From Paul by Paul Smith SS2013 Collection

From PS by Paul Smith (Mainline) SS2013 Collection

Being a self-proclaimed ex-Londoner, Paul Smith was among the first few London brands that I became familiar with soon after moving to such a vibrant city.

I think Paul Smith has always kept his designs very close to his heart, and you never see him chasing fashion trends like some other designers do. Hence, fashionistas who appreciate Paul Smith’s style will never abandon the brand. At the same time, if you don’t fall into love with this brand at first sight, then it’s very unlikely you will in the future!

To me, the brand symbolises British style quite perfectly – quintessentially classic but not dull, posh but in a sophisticated way.

I am a person who pays attention to small details, and Paul Smith is just the same; you can find interesting surprises (good ones!) when you look more closely at his designs.

Let’s begin!

作為一個曾經在倫敦常住的“倫敦客” （自稱），Paul Smith可以說是我最早接觸的幾個英國本土時尚品牌之一。

我一直覺得Paul Smith的設計很貼近他本人的真實生活和感受，而且他也從不會改變自己的設計風格，盲目追求曇花一現的季度潮流。所以，欣賞Paul Smith的時尚追逐者一旦喜歡上了，很少會有不喜歡的那天。同時，如果你第一次見到這品牌的設計卻“不來電”，那你未來會喜歡上它的機率也很低。

甚麼是英式風格？（我認為）看Paul Smith就能看出端倪：經典卻不沈悶，高雅時髦卻不俗套。

每次細觀Paul Smith的設計，都不會讓我失望，在細節處總能找到讓人雀躍的驚喜。我想，Paul Smith應該和我一樣，都是注重細節之人吧。

Overall, Paul Smith Menswear looks ahead to summer with a collection that brings a spark to the senses by celebrating modern masculine elegance, bold colour and sharp refined tailoring.

Colour is key and present at every level. Every shade of the spectrum is used, from pale pastels to dusty blues, pinky taupes, and deep reds through to bright hot vibrant colours. Brought together, simple elements impact strongly against luxurious blacks and prints of scissors and manipulated roses.

Jackets are slim and unfussy, have shoulders that are structured to give definition, but are not big or bulky. Trousers are pleated and pegged, with a stitched-in stay press to accentuate the silhouette.

Shirts return to larger, longer, angular collar points with high neck lines.

Outerwear comes in the form of a fully waterproof reversible welded seam mac cut with raw edges, with a contrast inside colour, creating a stiff straight silhouette to be worn over the tailored look.

Footwear is all about elevating heels, in turn creating an upright posture. The shape is short in length with a point in the toe, not just in the scissor-slashed shoes, but zip-up ankle boots and an all-leather jelly shoe too.

總體來講，這次Paul Smith男裝系列在用色上絕不保守吝嗇！除了鮮明的色彩運用，其設計重點是完美呈現現代男裝的優雅氣度，和俐落精緻剪裁。

整個系列善用各種深淺濃淡色彩，整個設計遍佈淡粉彩、灰藍、粉紅灰褐、深紅及鮮艷濃烈的色彩。繽紛色彩與簡約元素，加上雍容的黑色系、剪刀印花及特色玫瑰圖案，形成鮮明格調。

剪裁方面瀟灑富現代氣息，外套以修身俐落為主，肩膊線條筆挺，但絕不誇張累贅。長褲飾以褶襉和窄腳剪裁，再以壓燙縫線突出褲子輪廓。

襯衫的領口設計今季變得更大更長，配以尖角領，領線也變得更高。

外衣以雙面防水面料雨衣為主，配以焊接縫線及粗獷布邊，襯以撞色襯裡，輪廓筆挺直筒，適合配襯一身合身剪裁造型。

鞋履的加高鞋踭使身型更挺拔瀟灑，以尖頭設計配短鞋身，款式包括以剪刀剪出多道開口的皮鞋、拉鏈踝靴及工字繫帶皮鞋。

Multi-disciplinary French artist Jean-Paul Goude‘s work is the core inspiration of Paul Smith SS2013 womenswear. The illustrator, photographer, art editor and fashion film director is best known for his avant-garde, almost surrealist style. Goude’s playful and experimental aesthetic influenced the collection’s graphic use of mix-and match colours and textures.

Masculine styles are given a feminine twist with fluid fabrics such as wool crepe and silk sable, and a mix of crepe-de-chine and georgette create light texture.

Graphic stripes are a key motif in the collection; soft silhouettes contrast the linear prints. Soft pleats give the graphic styles a feminine touch.

Bright colours, including scarlet, sunshine yellow and bottle green are balanced by neutral black, navy and nude. Saturated hues are diluted to a more subdued rust, ochre and nude.

Paul Smith 2013春夏女裝系列設計靈感來自法國藝術家Jean-Paul Goude的藝術作品。Goude身兼插圖師、攝影師、藝術編輯和時裝電影導演，以超現實風格的前衞作品而聞名。他大膽且創新的美學觀念，影響了本次系列的平面圖案設計和色彩質感。

新系列大量採用羊毛縐紗、絲質貂皮等流麗面料，在硬朗線條中注入了女性嫵媚感。配搭廣東縐紗和薄紗，打造出輕盈飄逸質感。精緻喱士裝飾與服裝形成別致對比，加以啞面柔滑薄紗配襯亮面皮革，展現特色光影效果。

不難看出，圖案條紋是本季的主打圖案。而主打色調有鮮紅、亮黃與嫩綠等明艷色彩；與黑色、軍藍色及祼色巧妙平衡。

Shown above are my picks from Paul Smith’s main line collections for men, with accessories such as bow-ties, cufflinks and pocket squares.

Paul Smith main line:

The collection epitomises the smart contemporary man. Classical tailoring remains the focus of the lifestyle collection, complemented by formal shirts, outerwear and knitwear.

You can find a large selection of jackets in fine wools, silk and cotton. A vibrant colour palette of bright blues and damsons injects life into traditional grey and navy.

Silk, cotton mixes, linen and striped seersucker are good options for summer, with fine wools and mohair in Prince of Wales and windowpane checks for business occasions.

Italian-made shirts with checks and new floral designs complement the separates, whilst crisp business stripes, ginghams and a large number of coloured shirts are the perfect partner for those sharp suits.

上圖是一些我從品牌男裝主線新季系列中挑選出來的養眼款，包括每個男士都需要有的領結、袖扣和方形口袋絹。

Paul Smith主線：

設計方向：當代瀟灑男士。古典剪裁仍然是此系列的特色風格。

2013年的春夏以傳統的灰色和深藍為底，配襯鮮藍和暗紫，劃破沈寂的畫面。同時，新季推出了多款不同面料的外套，包括高級羊毛、絲綢和棉布，全部配搭半身印花襯裡。

真絲、混棉、亞麻布和條紋縐布是夏日的不二之選，商務造型則以高級羊毛、威爾斯格和四方格紋馬海羊毛為主。

不論是格紋、碎花、商務條紋、細格紋或彩色襯衫，全部為意大利製造。

Shown above are my picks from the Paul Smith main line, Paul Smith Black Label, Paul by Paul Smith collections for women.

上圖是一些我從品牌女裝新季的主線、精品黑線、和二線系列中挑選出來的養眼款。

Paul Smith Black Label:

The women’s collection takes inspiration from the work of leading artist Gerhard Richter and contemporary photographer Sandra Kantanen.

Dry brushing and smudging effects are all signatures of Richter’s early oil paintings, and have been adapted into key prints for this collection. In addition, you can spot a lot of bold pansy prints with blurred filter effects, sun-bleached checks and kaleidoscopic leaf and flower motifs.  The brush-like blur is created using an innovative technique where patterns are digitally printed onto the threads.

Longer lengths and oversized proportions are key to this collection; silhouettes are slim to the hip but full through the hem with softly tailored trousers, sunray pleated skirts and maxi dresses.

The colour palette contrasts soft pastels and neutral nudes with graphic greys and deep blues, punctuated by warm yellow, raspberry red and vivid lime.

Paul by Paul Smith:

Turner Prize-winning contemporary artist Wolfgang Tillmans‘ abstract photography and illustrator Hisham Akira Bharoocha’s surrealist collages inspired this collection. Tillman’s minimalist images experiment with colour, form, material and space – themes that are reflected in the use of print and colour.

The distorted photographs of Hisham Akira Bharoocha inspire the collection’s botanical prints, which combine digitally enhanced flowers with delicate hand drawings, contrasting pattern and texture.

The dreamlike feel of the collection is reminiscent of lazy, hazy summer days.  Casual basics are made from fluid jersey and soft separates, such as the bright botanical print pieces made from weightless silk cotton and soft chambray. Tailored pieces are made from heavier cotton canvas. Chambray is paired with delicate Broderie detailing on simple camisoles, collarless shirts and sleeveless shift dresses, as well as forming a versatile base for classic polka dot and mini anchor prints on chinos, workwear jackets and tiered summer dresses.

The colour palette contrasts soft summer neutrals and feminine pastels with rich mahogany, indigo and green, punctuated by a mix of brights, from crimson to primrose yellow.

The first thing I noticed when I stepped into the Paul Smith SS2013 preview showroom was flowers, especially roses.

Why roses?

After talking to the brand’s PR, I discoverd that roses are Paul Smith’s wife’s favourite flowers.

Roses are incorporated into different designs throughout the collection, in different styles and on different fabrics.

I sensed long-lasting love in the room – romance and style always go well together!

我踏進Paul Smith 2013香港的預覽會時，第一個注意到的就是“花朵”，花朵圖案以不同形態“綻放”在各類服飾上。

特別是玫瑰花！為甚麼設計師選擇了玫瑰花為主打呢？

在和品牌公關聊天後，才發現，原來玫瑰花是設計師的夫人最喜歡的花朵。

這哪裡還是單純的時裝設計，我明明感受到了充斥空氣中濃濃的愛意。

時尚和愛情，看似並無聯繫。但一旦衝撞在了一起，卻會產生有魔力的火花。

女裝精品黑線 Paul Smith Black Label:

此系列以知名藝術家Gerhard Richter和當代攝影師Sandra Kantanen的作品為靈感。

印花圖案和色彩呈現了Richter的精湛畫功，映像圖案的靈感來自Kantanen的作品，更帶來了一股陰鬱氛圍。

Richter早期常見的乾燥筆觸和暈染效果，化身2013年春夏系列三大重點特色印花：迷濛的大三色紫羅蘭、日曬格紋和萬花筒似的花葉圖案。布面的筆刷朦朧效果採用全新技術打造，以數碼科技將圖案印在線上。

長衣襬和鬆身剪裁是系列重點；上半身輪廓貼身至盤骨位置，下半身則以線條柔和及較鬆身的長褲、透孔百褶半截裙和長裙搭配。

整體色彩以柔和粉彩和淡裸色為主，配稱淡灰和深藍，並以暖黃、莓紅和鮮青綠點綴，份外清新奪目。

女裝二線 Paul by Paul Smith:

設計靈感來自榮獲Turner Prize的當代攝影師Wolfgang Tillmans的抽象攝影以及插畫師Hisham Akira Bharoocha的超現實拼貼畫。Tillmans以簡約映像探索色彩、形狀、素材、空間的特點品牌以圖案和色彩將這些主題呈現。

Tillmans的色彩方塊啓發了2013年春夏系列的主要圖案：大片彩色條紋融入噴槍效果，營造出誇張奪目的感覺。Hisham Akira Bharoocha的扭曲攝影作品則啓發了系列中的植物圖案：數碼加工花卉圖案配精緻手繪，與圖案與質感產生強烈對比。

夢幻色彩是新季中的主打色，令人聯想到慵懶迷濛的夏日。基本休閒衣飾以流麗針織及柔軟面料縫製而成，如輕柔的絲質棉布，配合柔軟的格仔條紋布縫製而成的明亮印花服裝。剪裁講究的設計則採用了較厚重棉質帆布。格仔條紋布配以精緻通花為簡約的小背心、無領襯衫和無袖迷你裙增添細節亮點。斜紋綿褲、挺身外套和百褶裙上採用經典圓點和迷你船錨印花作點綴，舒適並易於配搭。

新系列將夏日自然色澤與柔美粉彩與深沈的赤褐、靛藍和綠色對比著，並綴以點點梅紅、櫻草黃等明亮色彩為襯托。

‘Men Only?’  shoes? Do such things still exist in today’s world?! I like mixing men’s clothes with women’s clothes, and men’s shoes are a must-have for everyone!

But wait… things are not how how they seem (or written!). The shoes with the “Men Only” logo are actually for women – for the female fans of the designer who kept asking to be able to buy Paul Smith men’s shoes in a smaller size.

A variety of Oxfords and brogues can be found in this collection, but my favourites are the ‘sandals’ below.

只可以男人穿？現在的現代社會還有這麼性別歧視的事情嗎？！我自己就很喜歡混搭男女服裝，而且有些男士鞋款更是經典的必入時尚單品哦！

啊，等一下，事情並不是那麼簡單（不是書面的意思）。原來這款男士鞋款其實是特別為那些喜歡男士鞋款的時尚女設計製造的（哎，是在說我嗎？），只提供女鞋的尺寸。

除了這個經典卻很有巧思的男士涼鞋款，你還可以在Paul Smith SS2013系列中找到各式各樣的牛津鞋和後底鞋。

Is it Spring yet?!

怎麼，還沒到春天嗎？！